Top 10 Peaks for Climbing in Uttarakhand Himalayas

Kedarnath Peak (6992 mts/22935ft)

Part of the Gangotri Group of Peaks, Kedarnath stands tall with a height of 6992 m. This 6-thousander meters peak is situated to the south of the popular Kedardome peak and Gangotri Glacier makes for a memorable peak climbing adventure in the Gangotri region of Garhwal Himalayas. It is the highest peak towards the south of Gangotri Glacier and has two climbing routes, Northwest Flank and East Face, out of which Northwest Flank is the easier one. Kedarnath Peak that faces temple is somewhat a vertical wall which has an easier ascent. It has Mt Kedardome on the left and Bharte Kuntha and Kirti Stambh on the right. The base camp for Kedarnath Peak is at above Tapovan. The route for the advance base camp of the peak skirts around the slopes of Shivling and then entered Kirti Glacier and is not an easy drill. Snow-laden and full of avalanche prone gullies, Kedarnath is a challenging expedition that not only requires skill and strength but immense determination as well.

Trishul I Peak (7145 mts/23435 ft)

The visually spectacular Trishul Massif that resembles the Trident of Lord Shiva is said to be the first peak climbed in the Garhwal Himalayas. And today this majestic mountain is amongst the most preferred peak climbing expeditions in Garhwal. Trishul I is the tallest peak amongst the unique trident and is 7145 m high. It is also one of the challenging summit bids as the mountaineers make slow progress due to high wind speed and poor snow/ice conditions. The climb to Trishul I begin from Chandinaya Ghat, which is its base camp, and from there an arduous ascend in the mountain starts via Ronti Gad Glacier which is at a height of about 5020 m. The best time to attempt summit bid on this peak is between July and September.

Nanda Ghunti Peak (6309 mts/20695ft)

Marking the outer rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the lofty Nanda Ghunti Peak is viewed best from the meadows of Bedni Bugyal. Nanda Ghunti Peak is a climb for seasonal climbers who have both skills and patience for a prolong mountain siege. The north ridge of the peak is said to be comparatively easy to climb. However, the south ridge has some steep and narrow gullies that offer a direct opportunity for a summit bid, which can be best done under the moonlight early in the season when the gullies are snow-filled. Nanda Ghunti may be is shorter in height from the massive Trident peaks of Trishul, however, it does make a full-blown expedition that demands more than strength and skill.

Gangotri II Peak (6590 mts/21615ft)

Adorning the Garhwal sky, Gangotri II is the part of the majestic Gangotri Group of Peaks that surrounds the popular Gangotri Glacier. The climbing for Gangotri II that has a height of 6590 m begins from Rudugaira Nallah and then a steep ascend through narrow couloirs lead the mountaineers to the top of the peak. Gangotri II is an open peak and it rises above the Rudugaira Glacier and is fringed by Mt. Rudugaira to its right and the popular peak of Auden’s Col to the left. The summit bid to this quite a challenging peak can be done between April and October, however, the best time to go for this peak climbing expedition is post monsoon.

Joanali Peak (6632 mts/21750ft)

Another peak in Gangotri Group of Peaks that demands from climbers a lot of daredevilry and the right set of skills, Joanali is indeed one of the best peaks to climb in Garhwal Himalayas. Standing tall at a height of 6632 m, Joanali despite being comparatively short in elevation, is a tough peak to climb. It is dotted with tricky crevasses and steep slopes that have to be crossed in order to make a rewarding summit bid. Joanali is amongst the peaks that have been attempted in Garhwal Himalayas recently in the year 2009 but this open peak must be attempted in order to attain an exceptional experience. The best time to attempt summit bid on Joanali is between April and October, however, post-monsoon is ideal.

Meru North Peak (6450 mts/21156ft)

Standing in between famous Garhwal peaks of Thalaysagar and Shivling, Meru North is one of three peaks of Meru Mountain. The north peak is said to be an easier climb when compared to the Central Meru Peak. Meru North can also be seen as inspiration and motivation to attempt the central Meru Peak that has a record of being one of toughest routes in the world. The peak climbing expedition for Meru North with a height of 6450 m begins from Tapovan. The summit bid on Meru North can be done between April and October, although the post-monsoon months are preferred for this expedition.

Kedar Dome Peak (6830 mts/22400ft)

Situated in the Western Garhwal fringing the sacred Gangotri Glacier, Kedar Dome is a significant mountain peak. With a height of 6830 m, this Garhwal Himalaya is also a popular ski gradient (spring season) where even ski ascent has also been attempted. The base camp of Kedar Dome is at Tapovan from where a grueling peak climbing adventure begins. The northwest side of Kedar Dome is comparatively easy to crest the summit and the eastern side is recorded to be the most difficult route to reach the top. Kedar Dome is an open peak that can be attempted between May and October, however, the post-monsoon months are much preferred.

Shivling Peak (6543 mts/21460ft)

One of the best peaks in Garhwal Himalayas for alpine style expedition, Shivling forms the western gate for the lower side of the Gangotri Glacier. This peak which is also a twin-summit with the northeast peak being slightly higher than the southwest peak. Shivling has also been called as one of the gorgeous peaks in the Himalayas. It stands tall at a height of 6543 m and is steep on all sides making the ascent quite challenging. There are wide and narrow gullies that are snow-filled and allow slow movement up the ridge. There are also some areas where the climbers meet soft snow and loose rocks that with one mistake can lead a mountaineer in a basin. As one goes up the peak starts to become technically difficult. However, once on top, every effort seems worthy on the peak climbing expedition on Shivling Peak. Shivling is an open peak that can be attempted between May and October, however, the post-monsoon months are much preferred.

Vasuki Parvat (6792 mts/2227ft)

Another ornament of the Western Garhwal Himalaya, Vasuki Parvat stands majestically with the height of 6792 m. It is on this peak, weeklong lightweight alpine style ascent is possible, which means if a mountaineer wants he can refrain from the use of fixed ropes or other bulky expedition items, also no high-altitude porters are needed for this summit. The base camp for the expedition is at Nandanvan, which is a coarse grass pasture nestled between Gangotri and Chaturangi glaciers. The north face of Vasuki Parvat is a high angle slope replete with debris and rock-fall, while both the east and west faces are a meld of steep, rapidly decomposing rocks that stays almost devoid of snow in the peak climbing season. A long steep knife-edged ridge leads to the summit of Vasuki Parvat. This climbing expedition in Garhwal can be done between April and October.

Maiktoli Peaks (6803 mts/22315ft)

One of the major summits in the Sunderdhunga Valley of Kumaon Region, Maiktoli is yet another lesser trodden mountain in Uttarakhand. Standing with a height of 6803 m, Maiktoli is adjoined to r Devtoli and Mrithuni by a ridge in the northeast direction. Sunderdhunga BC is the base camp for Maiktoli which can be climbed through a long and dangerous route crossing the glacier of the same name as the mountain. It is an open peak and is best attempted during the post-monsoon months. However, one can also take up the climb in the months between April and October.